Soak pinto beans overnight, then cook as as in follow- ing recipe

Rinse chilies and discard stems and seeds

Break chilies into pieces and combine with beer in a 5- quart pan

Bring to a boil over high heat; then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until chilies are soft (about 30 minutes)

Puree chilies and their cooking liquid in a food processor or blender

With a spoon, push puree through a fine wire strainer and discard residue

Set puree aside. Cut beef from bones

Trim and discard excess fat; cut meat into 1-inch cubes

Heat oil in a 10-quart pan over medium-high heat

Add meat, a little at a time, and cook until well browned on all sides

Lift out meat and set aside. Add onions and garlic to pan

Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until onions are soft (about 10 minutes)

Add chili powder, paprika, cumin, oregano, sugar, coriander, red pepper, and allspice

Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes

Add beef and any juices that have accumulated, chile puree, broth, tomato sauce, and whiskey, if used

Stir well, then bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasion- ally, until beef is very tender (about 2 hours)

Season to taste with salt

Serve chili in individual bowls and top with beans and condiments

The flavor of this excep- tional chili really benefits from a day or two in the refrig- erator

Just reheat and serve

Makes 10 to 12 servings. COOKED PINTO BEANS Sort 1 pound of dried pinto beans and remove any debris

Rinse beans and place in a large bowl; cover with water and let stand until next day. Drain beans, discarding liquid

Combine beans, 8 cups water, and 1 dry bay leaf in a 5-quart pan

Bring to a boil over high heat

Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until beans are very tender (1 to 11/2 hours)

Season to taste with salt

Drain beans before serving. CONDIMENT SUGGESTIONS Serve in separate bowls: shredded Cheddar or Jack cheese, sour cream, diced tomatoes, sliced green onions (including tops), ripe olives, sliced ripe avocados and tor- tilla chips according to your taste.