This is what the experts say about cooking a brisket: Choose about a 9-pound beef brisket

Be sure to choose one with a little fat on it

The flavor won't be as good if it is too lean. Make the basic dry rub (see recipe previous page)- and rub thoroughly all over the meat

Don't ever pierce the meat with a fork

Turn with a tongs. Prepare a fire for smoke/indirect cooking as described at the beginning of this chapter, using mesquite, hicko- ry, or oak

If you have to you can use wood chips soaked in water with charcoal

Now let your fire burn down real low. Your fire shouldn't be too hot

But you can't let it go out either

You may have to nurse it along, adding small logs or charcoal from time to time

Remember to keep the fire off the meat

Keep water nearby to quench any flame-ups. When your fire is burning just right, put the brisket on and cover it up

A 9-pound brisket should cook about 18 hours for that real Texas barbeque flavor

Be sure to keep a close watch

Turn the meat once in awhile with the tongs and add wood to the fire or water to the pan. VARIATIONS: You can do the same thing with pork ribs, chicken, or steak

Use the dry rub seasonings (see recipes previous page)

Cook ribs about 3 hours, chicken about 2, steak just 20 minutes.